In June I went to a picnic where I had a “how is this food so good?” feeling. I kept going back for more. Later I found out the event had been catered by Cooks of Hope, founded by Chef James Johnson. Originally from the South Carolina Lowcountry, Johnson was raised in the Gullah Geechee culture.
“Many people are familiar with Southern food,” Johnson says, “but fewer have experienced authentic Lowcountry cooking prepared by someone who grew up in that tradition.” After tasting this food, I couldn’t agree more.
BRIEF HISTORY INTERLUDE
In case you’re unfamiliar with this part of American history, here’s a refresher. The Gullah Geechee are descendants of enslaved West and Central Africans who lived on isolated coastal and Sea Island plantations from North Carolina to northern Florida. In part because of their geographic isolation, the Gullah Geechee managed to retain African traditions, distinctive foodways, and strong communal ties despite centuries of enslavement. It’s worth underlining how their advanced farming know-how led to enormous contributions to American cuisine.
As Emily Meggett writes in Gullah Geechee Home Cooking, “Africans had been cultivating African rice for nearly three thousand years, along with many other crops that grew in hot regions, such as yams, black-eyed peas, peppers, okra, and watermelon. This generational knowledge carried on through enslavement … Gullah Geechee people were responsible for developing irrigation systems and dams, and cultivating crops like indigo and the nationally recognized Carolina Gold rice. Known for its fluffy texture, this made white slave owners in Charleston some of the wealthiest in the nation.”
Chef James Johnson was raised in the Gullah Geechee culture and hopes to preserve and share that heritage here in Minnesota. (Courtesy of Cooks of Hope)
MOUTHWATERING MENU ALERT
For Chef James Johnson, Lowcountry and Gullah Geechee cuisine is rooted in bold flavors, resourcefulness, and cooking techniques passed down through families. For instance, smoking and grilling are important in the cuisine. Meats are prepared over oak wood or through slow-smoking methods that allow the seasonings, natural juices, and smoke to develop over time.
“Whether it is our Grilled Turkey Wings, Smoked Beef Short Ribs, Carolina-style barbecue, Citrus Grilled Chicken, or Lowcountry Jerk Chicken, we believe great food comes from patience, quality ingredients, and respect for traditional cooking methods,” he says. This means wherever possible, sourcing from local farms and producers that share his commitment to quality. All of the turkey Cooks of Hope serves comes from one local farm.
Other items on Cooks of Hope’s menu include Lowcountry red rice (pictured up top), curry perlo, shrimp and grits, smoked fish and crab stew, Sea Island Salmon, Pili Pili chicken, collard greens, and seasonal Southern cobblers.
The Pili Pili chicken, a vibrant dish made with hot peppers, is a reflection of Johnson’s family story. It’s a popular dish in Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, where his wife, Peguy, is originally from, and he credits other African influences on the catering menu to her.
“More than anything, I want people to know that every dish has a story … our menu reflects the people, places, and cultures that have shaped our family,” Johnson says. “It is an honor to share those flavors with the Twin Cities through every meal we serve.”
